Color guide · Updated 2026-10-15
At-Home Hair Color Guide: Permanent vs. Demi, Developers & Patch Tests
Salon-quality color at home is doable with the right products and a little planning. Here's how the pieces fit together.
Types of hair color
Permanent color changes your hair's pigment and covers gray best. Demi-permanent color deposits tone with low developer and fades gradually. Semi-permanent and temporary colors sit on the surface and wash out.
Developer volume
10 volume deposits color with little lift; 20 volume is standard for gray coverage and 1–2 levels of lift; 30 and 40 volume lift more and are harsher. Always follow the color brand's mixing directions.
Going lighter on dark hair
Box color alone rarely lifts dark hair to blonde. That usually takes a lightener (bleach) followed by a toner. Use a bond-building treatment and deep conditioner to reduce damage.
Always patch test
Do an allergy patch test 48 hours before every color service, even with a brand you've used before, and strand-test to check the result.
Quick answers
What developer should I use to cover gray?
Most permanent colors use 20 volume developer for gray coverage — check the brand's instructions.
Can I return opened hair color?
See our returns policy for details on opened products.